Paint compatability

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1Tom1

Member
Hi all... Im leading in a few dings in my tank, done lotsa sanding and need to know if a cellulose primer will stick to the old original undercoats and primers. If so, anyone have a preferred brand? Liquid is ok, I can spray. Thx.
 
I don't know about this stuff as I have read that it either cracks or is prone to just peeling off. I have never used it but would now hesitate in doing so. Maybe some other forum members have had better results using it
 
I can only comment on the Plascon range. I have used both 1k and 2k packs, with a clear final coat.
For work on fiberglass and aluminium I have used an epoxy primer. I used this on chrome (i never keyed the chrome, just cleaned with benzine) too which is still holding fine after 2 years.

...
 
Hi all. Since I'm new to this "restoration" game, I won't flatten my forehead (by hitting repeated blows with my palm) over this one. This cellulose paint (the OEM stuff) is nothing more than everyday lacquer. Glossy? Yes! Durable? Mmmmm, no. I don't plan on entering any competitions with the Tiger and will go to a "modern" paint system. The choice for finishing (as I'm on somewhat of a budget) seems simple. If I could chrome everything, I would. Powdercoating (Im still using lead for the body filler, see the other thread for detail on that) seems the next best choice... ah, the budget. Now, the winner. A 2K (read K as part, some tech lingo) Urethane (Catalyzed) w/ added Hardeners seems the best way to go as I have a sprayer and access to a blasting cabinet (for prepping the smaller bits, brackets and such). Now, back to work having wasted many hours of sanding in hopes of "matching" the OEM finish. I'll be going to bare metal on the parts to be painted as the paint reps seem to agree that the new primer coat would "probably" stick to the old paint coats. I didn't want to argue with those guys for a definitive on that so I'll play safe as I plan later to beg "samples" of primer, paint and topcoats. A good stripping chemical for the old (OEM) top and undercoats is methylene chloride. I found it in a product by W.M.Barr & Co., Inc. Product #QKS3. The shelf name is Klean-Strip. It comes in several flavors, I chose "KS-3" in a paste (gel). 10 Dollars (US/quart). Here's their URL www.cleanstrip.com Since I had done some sanding, I was able to try the stuff on all paint layers. I smeared some on with a green scrub pad... Yikes! The pad was immediately attacked, leaving a smear of green color dissolved from the pad. Sweet! I let the stuff sit as per. The newest coat, it's associated primer and the OEM color coats came right off in a bunch. I used a plastic scraper. The OEM under coats (black under the factory gold/ dark green) and primers (light green and white) were not as easily removed. There's a pic of the partially sanded tank posted under "Classics/Restoration". Seems the best is to use the chemical stripper on all but the light green and white primers which are getting in a scrape with my 100 sandpaper. Im following the 100 with 220 prior to cleaning and 1st coat primer.
Since this has now passed the "compatability" issue, Im gonna move the continuation of this thread over to the "Restoration" section. Hope to see you there.
Would someone with some knowledge of this website please respond to this? Should I continue to post updates on the paint process here in this thread? Is there a better place?
Thanks all, hope its not raining wherever you all are.
 
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I would like some pics as you go along indeed.

Rain? Oh how I wish it would.....

37 here yesterday - this must be preparing me for my trip to hell.


:D
 
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