Oil Change... DIY

[golfingirl]

Hey everyone,

i received my Pitbill rear stand yesterday and I'm planning on changing the oil myself for the first time. My bike is almost a year old and I have put about 2200 miles on her. I figured it was time I needed to learn.

Any advice would be welcome. Currently, she has Mobil 1 oil in her. I think I'll continue that. It's pretty hot here in the south so 10W40? Also, what type of filters are deemed the best? Also, readily available as I want to pick one up at the store today. No time to order online.

Should the oil be slightly warm when I drain it? I've never changed the oil on anything before even though I've seen it hundreds of time on our cars. I know it's not rocket science but I want to do it right.

Approximately how much oil should I be putting back in? I don't want to overfill. Does it take a while to trickle down? If so, how long before I go back and top up?

thanks!

 

[Silli]

Yes, the oil should be warm to assist with draining.

The handbook states "oil and filter" = 3.8 litres. (1 U.S. gallon if I am not mistaken)

Again, yes, the oil does take some time to find it's level. Slightly under-fill....say 3.5 litres, then run the engine (no load) for a few
minutes, then switch off and wait a few minutes (tea/coffee) and finally top up to the sight glass level.

I have no clue regarding filters. If in doubt, use triumph.




Find the handbook here:

http://www.triumph.co.uk/media/900.pdf

 

[hemibee]

I always like to have warm oil when I start draining.

I'm not sure what oil the Bonnie calls for so can't comment on the 10W40 other than to say make sure it is motorcycle oil. Same with the filters, not sure which the Bonnie runs but for my Tiger I buy filters at WalMart or the local auto parts houses for a fraction of what they cost at the dealer or a motorcycle parts supplier.

I place the full amount of oil in when I start refilling all vehicles. It will not take long for the oil to settle down after refilling. By time I clean up my mess around the bike (wipe down the few drops I got on the bike when filling) the bike is ready to start. I run it to check for leaks, shut it down and let it cool while I'm putting all my tools away and then check the oil level to be correct which it should be since I filled the bike with the required amount and the filter is now full of oil after the short run time.

 

[Rocky]

If that 2200 miles is on a fresh oil change with Mobil 1, then you still have quite a ways to go before the oil and filter need to be changed.
The owner's manual schedule says change the oil and filter every 4/6000 miles, but when I get up to around 5000 miles or so, I think about changing it. If you do a lot of slow stop-and-go riding, or a lot of riding in the rain I would certainly change it between 4-5000 miles. Otherwise, I would stick to the schedule.
If I were you I would use 20w50. That's what I use and what's recommended by my dealer. 10w40 is OK in a water cooled bike, but the T100 is air cooled, and even though it has an oil cooler, I would use the higher grade.
Follow the guides in the owners manual on pages 57 & 58 and you can't go wrong.
I've been using Triumph oil filters, but I'm sure Carl and others can recommend other brands.
A new sump plug washer is a good idea, but I've reused the old washers more than once and they have never leaked. Just make sure the washer is in place or the plug will leak.
Use the sight glass to check oil level with both tires on level ground and the bike held vertical.
Hot oil drains faster and more complete so take it for short ride first to get the oil hot. The sump plug and the oil will be hot so watch your hands.
I recommend using shop grade latex-type gloves when changing oil to keep the oil off your skin and give your fingers some protection (but only a little) from the heat.
Have lots of paper shop towels in case of a spill.

 

[hemibee]

Have lots of paper shop towels in case of a spill.

Have you been watching me change the oil?

 

[Rocky]

Have you been watching me change the oil?

No, I'm speaking from personal experience

 

[hemibee]

 

[Rocky]

The Haynes manual gives a very detailed and step-by-step procedure for oil and filter changes.
It's on page 1.9 in my manual.
The torque for the oil drain plug/bolt is 25 NM (Newton Meters). My torque wrench has both NM and foot pounds, but I use foot pounds because it's easier to set.
18 foot pounds = 24.4 NM
19 foot pounds = 25.8 NM
If you use a torque wrench, set it a bit lighter than 19FP.
To tell the truth, I just use my educated elbow and snug the bolt up nice and tight without overdoing it and have never had a problem.
The oil filter will require an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to get it off and a new one back on.
Don't forget to put some oil on the new filter O-ring before screwing it on - and make sure the contact area is clean and free of grit and debris.

 

[gumpt1oo]

All the above is great advice, I would add that I always fill the oil filter with oil before I fit it.
Then fill the engine up to the required level in the sight glass.

 

[Rocky]

All the above is great advice, I would add that I always fill the oil filter with oil before I fit it.
Then fill the engine up to the required level in the sight glass.

I do too and didn't think to mention it. Thanks for mentioning it
This is easy to do since the oil filter sits upright.
All of this may seem long and detailed, but once you change the oil a couple of times it's not hard at all.

 

[hemibee]

This is easy to do since the oil filter sits upright.

Unless it's me doing it . . . . . . On the bright side. . . I'm getting good at cleaning up oil spills.

 

[Rocky]

well.......you do have to be a little careful or else.......not that I'm perfect every time

 

[CarlS]

The advice given is spot on. I agree with Rocky, in the summer time in the Southeast, I suggest you run 20w50. I do so in my Bonnie T100. Triumph used to recommend 20w50 until they changed oil suppliers and the new supplier doesn't make a 20w50, fully synthetics grade. Make sure that you do NOT use an automotive oil; it needs to be motorcycle specific. You can also use diesel motor oil; it works fine in motorcycles. Like Rocky, I change my oil every 5,000 miles - usually twice per year.

 

[golfingirl]

Thanks everyone for the great tips. I changed my oil yesterday. It was surprisingly dirty. It has been about a year since the previous oil change so I thought it was due even though I only put a couple thousand miles on my bike. Overall it was pretty simple. The hardest part was getting my bike on the Pitbull stand for the first time. That's definitely a two person job for now.

I did use 20W50 Mobil 1 oil for V twins. That's what's been running in my bike. I put a K&N filter back in. I found the nut on it helpful for removing it.

My husband stood around and helped me a bit. Mainly to make sure I didn't over tighten anything. I don't have an adequate torque wrench. The pounds per foot on it read too high so I need a more sensitive one... especially for when I change the head gasket. My next adventure!

 

[CarlS]

Very good. You chose a good oil; I have used Mobil for V-Twins a couple of times. I am glad you chose the 20W50.

 

[Rocky]

Yes, I also found that using a paddock stand is a two-person job. It can be done alone, but I'm too afraid of tipping the bike over so I tether the bike in a vertical position with nylon straps linked to the walls of my one-car garage and then raise the paddock stand.
Did I read that correctly? You're going to change the head gasket????
It seems to me that you bike is much too young and has too few miles to need that - but then I don't know all the details.

 

[The Seeker]

I was wondering why a head gasket change is being planned too?

Posted with TapaTalk

 

[golfingirl]

My bike is leaking a little oil around the cam cover. Weeping only but getting my engine messy. I was planning on replacing that gasket and the washers and nuts. Apparently, the 2006 model is known for its leaking cam cover.

 

[Rocky]

Phew, you had me worried for a while!!
It's the "cam/valve cover" gasket and not the "head" gasket.
My bike is a 2006 and it has never leaked a drop from the cam/valve cover. I have never heard that this gasket was a particular problem.
In 2008 I went for some glitz and bought the chrome cam/valve cover which I changed myself. I used the old gasket which I removed very carefully; cleaned it well of old jointing compound; carefully cleaned the groove in the head and cover also; used some Hylomar jointing compound and put it back together. It has never leaked a drop.
You may have a pinched gasket which is causing the leak so I would get a new one. It's better to do this right the first time.
The cam/valve cover bolts are small and only need light torque or you risk twisting them off. It's the rubber gasket and jointing compound that does the sealing - not pressure. The four bolts just hold everything well clamped together.
This is all covered in the Haynes Manual.
The torque is 10 NM. I like to use foot pounds so here are the equivalents:
7 FP = 9.5 NM
8 FP = 10.8 NM
Glad to hear that you got on well with the oil change.

 

[golfingirl]

Oh sorry. I used the wrong term. I've read on some other forums that the weeping is a common problem on and around my year of bike. Just thought if I was going through all the trouble to fix it, I might as well get all new bits. If the parts look to be in good shape, I'll just keep them for spares. I'm beginning to understand why mechanics and the like are hoarders by nature.

Ive looked all around for a torque wrench that reads such low pounds if pressure to no avail. I suppose I can find one online.