Need shop to help service my 1971 t100R

[casper587]

I have a 1971 T100R Daytona that needs some work. Runs ok, buy needs to be services and have some non OEM items replaced. Can anyone suggest a shop in CT that could help me. I live in Fairfield Count but kind of feel the shops might be more in the northern part of CT. Also Westchester County NY would work..

Thanks,

PS this is my first time using this site so if I have not done this correctly I would appreciated a gentle nudge in the right direction

 

[NM Bonny]

I have a 1971 T100R Daytona that needs some work. Runs ok, buy needs to be services and have some non OEM items replaced. Can anyone suggest a shop in CT that could help me. I live in Fairfield Count but kind of feel the shops might be more in the northern part of CT. Also Westchester County NY would work..

Thanks,

PS this is my first time using this site so if I have not done this correctly I would appreciated a gentle nudge in the right direction

First - welcome!

Second - you may get more targeted attention if you start a new thread featuring your bike—though I’m happy to have you post on my thread, as several experienced people are following it.

Third - servicing these bikes is so easy that you could do it yourself, save money, and get to know your machine at the same time. I’m sure if you started a thread titled ‘good shops near Fairfield, CT?’ you’d get responses. But I would encourage you to buy the shop manual (that is, not the Haynes or Chiltons, which aren’t very good IMHO) for your bike, and dive in.

For instance: valve adjustments take just a few moments and only require a special tool to remove the tappet cover cap, a couple of feeler gauges, and a couple of wrenches. Finding TDC is easy, per the manual—but I just remove the R/H spark plug and rotate the engine until the intake valve opens, then start watching the timing mark under the alternator cover. Adjust, rotate for the L/H cylinder, repeat.

Oil changes are also simple—and you’ll see in this thread that I converted to an aftermarket filter-and-lower cover unit that works well. Having a filter will greatly prolong the life of your engine. Don’t forget to lube the speedo drive and swing arm bushes—and the barrel at the lever end of the clutch cable, so it works smoothly.

I’d start there, install new plugs, inspect the points, and after that stuff is done, fiddle with the carb adjustments and determine whether the carb needs any new gaskets, etc. They are dead simple inside, with very few moving parts. Your job is made much easier by only having one of them!

 

[Vector]

Good looking bike.

 

[casper587]

Thanks very much for your reply. Very helpful information. I do have the shop manual but just worry there are items that I may not totally understand.

 

[Rudie]

have the shop manual but just worry there are items that I may not totally understand.

Anything you do not understand, ask a question here.

We all started about the same place as you are now, just some years ago ...

valve adjustments take just a few moments and only require a special tool to remove the tappet cover cap, a couple of feeler gauges, and a couple of wrenches. Finding TDC is easy, per the manual—but I just remove the R/H spark plug and rotate the engine until the intake valve opens, then start watching the timing mark under the alternator cover. Adjust, rotate for the L/H cylinder, repeat.

Mmmm ... one hopes not exactly ...

Because the engine is a parallel twin, both cylinders will always be in the same position. As @NM Bonny posted, valve clearances are checked/adjusted when the pistons are at TDC (Top Dead Centre) (visible through a spark plug hole) - at TDC, one cylinder's valves will both be closed (those are the valves to check/adjust), the other cylinder's valves will be open. Having checked/adjusted the closed valves, rotate the crank 360 degrees, the pistons will be back at TDC but now the cylinder with valves open before, the valves will now both be closed, can be checked/adjusted.

However, TDC is not indicated by "the timing mark under the alternator cover" - when the line on the alternator rotor lines up with the fixed pointer under the cover, pistons are 34 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Centre), when the spark occurs when the timing is fully-advanced.

Another thing making valve clearance checking/adjusting more difficult on a T100R than a T120R is the T100R clearances are miniscule - 0.002" inlet, 0.004" exhaust.

Having a filter will greatly prolong the life of your engine.

+1. @NM Bonny means specifically a filter element designed to trap the micron-sized particles ... for which the standard recycled tea-strainers in oil tank and crankcase are no use whatsoever. However, this is in the future?

converted to an aftermarket filter-and-lower cover unit that works well.

Only possible on 71 and later 650 and 750 twins, that carry the engine oil in a large diameter tube that forms part of the frame. Otoh, T100R carries its engine oil in the separate tank on the right hand side under the seat.

Still easy to change the oil - the bolt head in the bottom of the tank is the drain plug. However, good to have a funnel under the tank, angled to direct the oil to the drain can beside the exhaust pipe. Otherwise the oil runs over all of the parts under the tank, on to the garage floor, drive, road surface ... AMHIKT ...