lowering a 1995 trophy 1200
- Thread starter mtncrsr
- Start date
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There is a guy in England that makes adjustable lowering dogbone links (which is the linkage between the swing arm and the rear shock).
I just cannot recall the name of the place right now, but he does have a website where he also sells screens.
I'll keep trying to remember and search for the website.
This isn't a simply job to do though...and, if you lower the rear, then you'll need to lower the front to match (not too hard to do).
A Corbin or Sargant seat can get you about 1 inch too.
I just cannot recall the name of the place right now, but he does have a website where he also sells screens.
I'll keep trying to remember and search for the website.
This isn't a simply job to do though...and, if you lower the rear, then you'll need to lower the front to match (not too hard to do).
A Corbin or Sargant seat can get you about 1 inch too.
I have also heard of some folks lowering a little bit by by turning the eccentric chain adjuster at the rear axle upside down.
It took me awhile to locate the website I mentioned above, but I finally found it:
Bikers Choice Ride Height Adjusters
This is the CORRECT way to adjust the ride height on a Trophy!
Once there, you can follow the links to get more valuable info all about them.
Bikers Choice Ride Height Adjusters
This is the CORRECT way to adjust the ride height on a Trophy!
Once there, you can follow the links to get more valuable info all about them.
triple trouble
Member
This is easily done on these bikes by rotating the chain adjuster eccentric 180 deg and will give you approx 40 mm. You have to cut off a small projection on the caliper to allow this. The forks can then be dropped a similar amount to keep the geometry the same. There should be plenty of info on the subject available on the web.
That of course works as long as you don't need to tighten your chain much. 40 mm = 1.6 inches.
The other drawback (with a Trophy in particular) when dropping the fork tubes in their yokes is that you won't be able to use your plastic trim piece that goes between the bars holding the ignition & fork lock anymore. You might need to fabricate a piece of aluminum or sheet metal to replace it.
But if all you need is 40 mm, it's a LOT cheaper and a LOT easier to do.
The other drawback (with a Trophy in particular) when dropping the fork tubes in their yokes is that you won't be able to use your plastic trim piece that goes between the bars holding the ignition & fork lock anymore. You might need to fabricate a piece of aluminum or sheet metal to replace it.
But if all you need is 40 mm, it's a LOT cheaper and a LOT easier to do.
triple trouble
Member
Rotating the adjuster 180 deg still allows normal chain adjustment. The method you suggest alters the suspension geometry and can make it a harsher ride. I have used the rotation method on a Sprint and a 900 Trophy with good results.
A good adjustable rear shock like a Penske is a must on these Trophys, and a stiffening of the front end anyhow.
Personally, I'm OK with the height as is. But I've done the above because it sorely needs it.
Personally, I'm OK with the height as is. But I've done the above because it sorely needs it.
triple trouble
Member
+1 on the suspension mods. Way too soft and the diving under braking drove me nuts. I liked the Racetech springs up front.
[quote author=triple trouble link=topic=5731.msg34046#msg34046 date=1246272222]
I liked the Racetech springs up front.
[/quote]
Absolutely!!!
I liked the Racetech springs up front.
[/quote]
Absolutely!!!
