BAinLA
Well-Known Member
Thanks for clearing that up!
I'm The New Old Guy.
- Thread starter Rodster
- Start date
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Yep, change all the fluids and get a new set of tires. If the battery is original that may be an issue too - unless you already replaced it.
I was at a Houston dealer when they rolled theirs out to the showroom.
Rodster
Member
The rehab is progressing nicely. Finished up the forks, front wheel bearings, brakes, etc and getting ready to move to the rear. One question I have is regarding tires. The original Lasertecs need to be replaced (I suspect compound has aged) and I would like to keep the same type since they were OE. Does anyone have a recommendation for a better replacement? Also, I have been able to find the tires but not the tubes. Should I use Metzler tubes or is there a better alternative.
Thanks everybody.
I'm sure the Metzler tubes will be fine. They make a good tire, so why not the tubes as well.
Rodster
Member
Hello Again.
Time to do the tires!
I noticed that my front tire is a Metzeler Lasertec 100/90-19 and the rear is Metzeler MEZ2 130/60R17. As far as I can tell the front is a bias ply tire while the rear is a steel radial.
I remember that you are not supposed to mix radial and bias on automotive applications is it different on motorcycles?
When I look online for Lasertec replacements they have a front and rear fitment of the same bias ply tire, is that the best way to go or should i replace with bias front and radial rear?
Thanks.
Time to do the tires!
I noticed that my front tire is a Metzeler Lasertec 100/90-19 and the rear is Metzeler MEZ2 130/60R17. As far as I can tell the front is a bias ply tire while the rear is a steel radial.
I remember that you are not supposed to mix radial and bias on automotive applications is it different on motorcycles?
When I look online for Lasertec replacements they have a front and rear fitment of the same bias ply tire, is that the best way to go or should i replace with bias front and radial rear?
Thanks.
FWIW, when I bought my T100 Bonneville it was fitted exactly the same way, bias front; radial rear.
For years we've been told this is a no-no, but the factory must have known what they were doing as the bike ran and handled fine.
When it came time to change tires I went with bias front and rear because I like Bridgestone tires and they were easy to get locally.
It would seem that either of your choices are right.
Metzler tubes are some of the best on the market so that's what I use.
For years we've been told this is a no-no, but the factory must have known what they were doing as the bike ran and handled fine.
When it came time to change tires I went with bias front and rear because I like Bridgestone tires and they were easy to get locally.
It would seem that either of your choices are right.
Metzler tubes are some of the best on the market so that's what I use.
Rodster
Member
Hello everybody!
Passed the test got my ticket and I am riding up a storm. As you imagine once I got on the road I started to see some new, unanticipated, problems from the 6 years this bike sat without use. The one I am working on now is the clutch lift arm seal. It started to leak a couple of days ago, not too bad, but needs to be repaired. I got all the gaskets, seals, etc from Hermy's and now the big question is ... gasket sealer or dry gasket on the engine cover. Manual says dry but I am wondering what the experienced guys think. I looked at some of the forum threads but they are all over the place on yes or no so I thought I would ask you guys directly since you have been so much help and completely right on your recommendations so far.
Thanks.
Passed the test got my ticket and I am riding up a storm. As you imagine once I got on the road I started to see some new, unanticipated, problems from the 6 years this bike sat without use. The one I am working on now is the clutch lift arm seal. It started to leak a couple of days ago, not too bad, but needs to be repaired. I got all the gaskets, seals, etc from Hermy's and now the big question is ... gasket sealer or dry gasket on the engine cover. Manual says dry but I am wondering what the experienced guys think. I looked at some of the forum threads but they are all over the place on yes or no so I thought I would ask you guys directly since you have been so much help and completely right on your recommendations so far.
Thanks.
Congratulations on getting your motorcycle rating! For the gaskets, I would follow the manual, in my opinion, however I'm a "rookie". Some with much greater experience may speak up. My opinion is also that if you do use gasket sealer, make sure it is non-hardening.
Rodster
Member
Hello all. Been riding up a storm and so far all is good. Had to change clutch release rod seal but otherwise bike is running great. I was poking around while doing some cleaning and I found a hole in one of the frame downtubes near the oil cooler and exhaust (pic attached), is this supposed to be here? Manual had no info. Thanks.
Attachments
Good question, it may be for a wire outlet if the frame is used on other models or for a accessory .
Retired licensed Master Auto/Motorcycle Mechanic here. 10 years with BMW (cars). Do NOT use gasket sealer!! NOT EVER!!!! The GASKET is what is designed to stop leaks!- not some goop that will be a huge PIA to deal with later. Best thing- a light smear of grease on both sides of gasket. Will gently hold gasket in place while assembling, will fill minute surface imperfections, generally will harmlessly combine with internal fluids, and if necessary to remove, may allow gasket to be re-used.
That makes perfect sense. When I began working at Bombardier Ltd my first official event was the Service Reps annual late summer update in Montreal . That was our introduction to a brand new product called Loctite which was going to be replacing the traditional paper crankcase gasket . Many were sceptical, but it was a big improvement on the 2 cycle engines. Head gasket material remained unchanged, I have no idea what is used these days.
Many automotive uses for "RTV" silicone type sealants in place of paper. etc. gaskets these days- example Ford valve covers, intake manifolds, etc. Or "Yamabond" for crankcases. They work well. Difference from shellac type goop used in "old days" is it stays pliable and can be easily removed, is not affected by oil, etc, and takes up less space on parts dept. shelves- couple dozen gaskets vs a tube of sealant. BUT...(and it's a big but!), machining is vastly more accurate than years past resulting in much smoother, more finished surfaces- so less imperfections to fill. I own and work on old Brit bikes, (Norton Commandos and Meriden Triumphs mostly) and some of the mating surfaces don't lend themselves that well to using these sealers vs a proper gasket with a smear of grease
