HELP...Air box removale

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leemo

Member
I have a trophy 900, I want to replace all the plumbing that goes to the carbs. I have seen some where that the air box came be split so the carb don't get removed. Any advice would be gratfully received.

Peter
 
Well the seam with the screws does allow you to split it open and replace the filter inside, but you need to remove the airbox to do that.

Some folks have been able to do that on the bike, but I have never figured out how it's possible. You would need a really long screwdriver and possibly a right-angle screwdriver to even reach the screws in the center.

But to replace all the hoses, I would think you'd want to remove the air box no matter what.

PS: Where the fuel lines enter the carbs are tiny plastic fuel filters (screens). I mention this so that you don't accidently lose one.

-- Posted with TapaTalk
 
On closer inspection the front of the air box had been cut so I could remove both sides ad check the filter. What ( I have found out) is just once dismount the air box and pull it back then unclamp the carbs, leaving the cables and pipes attached and lift up and forwards the after removing all the gubins off the stubbs, pull it out. then refit the carbsand clamp up. Then with the air box remove all the screws and cut at an angle with a thin blade leaving the two middle screw holes on each half of the cover, then refit the box itself and clamp to the carbs. Then fit a nice new K+N filter then refit the covers from either side leaving the two middle screws out the the cut in the centre is minimal and is before the filter. Works well.


Peter.

((THIS INSTRUCTION WAS FOUND ELSE WHERE AND IS NOT MINE BUT I PASS IT ON FOR YOUR INFOMATION))
 
I'm sorry but I can't follow along with those instructions.

-- Posted with TapaTalk

Sorry it is confusing.BLUSH It makes sense to me but I can see it. I will try to inprove the description.SAD just bear with me. I would enclose pics but I don't have a camera.:y73:

Peter
 
I'd like to find out a better way as well. My shop manual from Triumph states that you have to replace the entire assembly. It seems like that assembly is sturdy enough to use forever, and the element looks easily replaceable. I saw K&N elements for - I think - this on Ebay for 38 bucks. Ya know, for bikes that pride themselves on engineering, I have to give an "F" for design on this. The air filter should be accessible for any user to clean or replace without removing the carbs, probably without removing the tank, which my official manual also requires. I'd like to know what the Haynes says about it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390704722659?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

$(KGrHqZ,!lwFI2IS,5BbBSOyblE9Gw~~60_3.JPG

That looks like the element in mine.
 
I replaced my air filter this year on my 1995 Thunderbird, and whilst I were dead lucky to get the old one off, and the new one on at the second attempt, I couldn't agree more that the design is absolutely stupid, and that's being kind.
The only problem that I came across, ( and I tried this one the old one not the new ) was that I found it impossible to separate the front half of the box, from the rear. The screws just kept turning no matter what I tried. My idea was to replace the air filter inside with a K & N filter, but I was about a week from going to Austria, and at the time living in spain and it was touch and go as to whether or not the filter would come in time, so I just replaced like for like. If you do attempt this, before you just replace the air box, check your carb rubbers from the air box to the carbs and from the carbs to the engine, as I found that 2 of mine had perished. ( To be honest as this is such a crap job I'd replace them while you have it all off, that way you know your good for another 25000+ miles ) So whatever you do check these whilst you have the air box off, or you'll kick yourself a few miles down the road when you find out they're not up too much, and you have to go through all the hassle again.
A tip for you when you attempt this job, have the kettle on stand by for a cup of tea, and walk away from it when the air turns blue, and it will.
The only other problem that you'll have to keep an eye on is the 4 lugs that hold the chrome side covers on they can split, and if that happens you'll have one hell of a job to get your side covers off. I always put a bit of copper grease into the screw threads to help removal at a latter stage. ( Not that this in itself will help with the splitting problem it won't ) With regards to the splitting I have put some cable ties around mine, and pulled them as tight as I could giving the steams a bit more support.
Good luck with it anyway.
 
I can see what you mean about the boots - much better to leave the job until you've ordered new ones, if they look bad or might rip horribly in the process. Air turns blue? Not sure what you mean.
So, the bolts actually split? Can't imagine it. I think a bit of copper stuff is a decent idea, though. Fortunately, the rubbers on the carbs looked pretty good for sitting around a long time. It's been in a garage in Texas, so neglected, but not in extreme temps.
 
Air turns blue? Not sure what you mean. = All this means is that when you loose your temper the air will turn blue with swear words.( Good old British saying ) The bolts holding the covers to the air box don't split as such themselves, it's the two protruding mounting lugs from the air box that the bolts screw into that can split. Anyway looks like you have it all sorted now which is the main thing
 
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