When you have it all cleaned out, fresh fluid and the air has been bled off, start again. Crack the nipple on the caliper and force another 200ml of fluid through the system, don't be tempted to catch and reuse this fluid no matter how clean it looks. When the bike has about 500 miles on it, do it one more time, fluid is cheap, gummed or blocked brakes are dangerous.
Front Brake Problem
- Thread starter Glenn
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Good advice. 
Glenn
Bonneville T100
Put it on. Blew out the lines from the top. Bled the system 5-6 times and the fluid was clean as could be. Fluid was dripping from the flat area on the barrel that the grub screw connects to. Took the barrel off and took it apart, put it back together and everything works fine. My first thought was that the rubber cup was put on backwards, but everything seemed fine. I have no explanation as to why it dripped in this location at first but not afterwards. I am not satisfied with the amount of pressure on the lever. There is a lot of play until it develops pressure about two inches from the handlebar. I screwed the barrel in until there was no play in the lever and then turned it an additional 360 degrees and then another quarter turn so that the grub screw and the flat area lined up. I will probably bleed it again tomorrow to make sure all the air that has settled is out of the system.
Looks like you are getting it sorted out now. Seems that you have also had to put a lot of work into it but I suppose you cannot rush something like the brakes can you
glad it's sorted.
hope it doesn't make
again.
hope it doesn't make
You mention turning it until there was NO play in the lever and then another 360 degrees.
I do believe that you should have about 1/8th - 1/4th of an inch of play at the lever just to be on the safe side (plus the manuals say the same thing).
As the fluid warms, it will expand.
I do believe that you should have about 1/8th - 1/4th of an inch of play at the lever just to be on the safe side (plus the manuals say the same thing).
As the fluid warms, it will expand.
Glenn
Bonneville T100
I did what the manual that came with the SS cylinder barrel said to do. I followed the instructions to the letter. It is working fine now. i did squeeze the lever as tight as I could get it and zip tied it off avernight as someone suggested to make the rogue air bubbles migrate to the top. It seems to be working better today. I also put two springs in between the pads around the cotter key to keep the pads seperated to get rid of the chatter/ticking noise.
Glenn sounds like you used all the tricks possible here so they should very much be sorted by now
