Broken Rear Tank Mounting Bracket On 2011 Storm

[SparkyMan]

I only wanted to lift the front of the tank to route a new USB cable, but when I removed the bolt at the front, the tank began sliding back towards the battery. I caught this immediately, got the tank balanced, and was able to disconnect everything and get the emptied tank off the bike without incident.

My plan is to use JB Weld to reattach the broken tabs. I figure leaving them bolted to the bracket is going to be more effective, and attached they should align well. Plus the weight of the tank will help the epoxy to properly adhere.

I got wiring, etc. well out of the way and installed the tank, getting the front bolt just started to secure the tank. With that bolt gently tightened down, the rear of the tank is lifted to the point where moderate force will not get the two broken pieces to meet. Unscrewing the bolt results in the rear lowering enough for proper alignment of the tabs.

When I initially removed the tank, I discovered the left hand rubber cushion that supports the tank on the floor. I easily popped it back into place copying the positioning of the right hand one, with the small round channel on the outside.



This may explain why the bracket broke in the first place. There was mild rust on the surfaces of the break letting me know that this occurred prior to my taking possession of this bike eight days ago. I hadn’t noticed any looseness of the tank in the 400 miles I’ve ridden.



I noticed a small paint chip adjacent to the front bolt which is making me wonder if the tab for the front bolt has been bent upwards, in spite of its having a rolled edge along the sides, which have helped prevent its getting bent. Here are pics; one with the bolt loose enough to allow my epoxying, one with the bolt brought home. Plus one of the broken bracket.

Would it be possible for someone to compare the positioning of my front attachment tab to theirs -or provide a photo of theirs- so I can rule out a bend?
Thanks!
-Sparky

 

[Qship]

That would take a fair bit of force to break that bracket. Is the dealer you bought it from aware of this? There may be other issues that can't be seen.

 

[SparkyMan]

Yeah, Qship, my take is that the through-bolt must have been loose, allowing enough rattling about to break one side, and the other followed suit.
This bike came into a Harley dealer 150 miles from me, on a Thursday and I picked it up the following Saturday. I don’t think they had much time to give a detailed inspection of it, but it appears to have been very well cared for. For its age and mileage (14,500) it is In impeccable condition which, to me, is indicative of being well cared for. I have the seat and tank off and see no signs of wear, unusual or normal, or damage of any kind.
I bought the bike ”as is”, so have no recourse with the dealer.
Thanks for your thoughts.
-Sparky

 

[Qship]

JB Weld is great stuff. Hope it works for you. Maybe get the brackets welded in the off season, if you have an "off" season where you live in California.

 

[DrPat]

JB Weld is great stuff. Hope it works for you. Maybe get the brackets welded in the off season, if you have an "off" season where you live in California.

I only wanted to lift the front of the tank to route a new USB cable, but when I removed the bolt at the front, the tank began sliding back towards the battery. I caught this immediately, got the tank balanced, and was able to disconnect everything and get the emptied tank off the bike without incident.

My plan is to use JB Weld to reattach the broken tabs. I figure leaving them bolted to the bracket is going to be more effective, and attached they should align well. Plus the weight of the tank will help the epoxy to properly adhere.

I got wiring, etc. well out of the way and installed the tank, getting the front bolt just started to secure the tank. With that bolt gently tightened down, the rear of the tank is lifted to the point where moderate force will not get the two broken pieces to meet. Unscrewing the bolt results in the rear lowering enough for proper alignment of the tabs.

When I initially removed the tank, I discovered the left hand rubber cushion that supports the tank on the floor. I easily popped it back into place copying the positioning of the right hand one, with the small round channel on the outside.



This may explain why the bracket broke in the first place. There was mild rust on the surfaces of the break letting me know that this occurred prior to my taking possession of this bike eight days ago. I hadn’t noticed any looseness of the tank in the 400 miles I’ve ridden.



I noticed a small paint chip adjacent to the front bolt which is making me wonder if the tab for the front bolt has been bent upwards, in spite of its having a rolled edge along the sides, which have helped prevent its getting bent. Here are pics; one with the bolt loose enough to allow my epoxying, one with the bolt brought home. Plus one of the broken bracket.
View attachment 55570
View attachment 55571
View attachment 55572
Would it be possible for someone to compare the positioning of my front attachment tab to theirs -or provide a photo of theirs- so I can rule out a bend?
Thanks!
-Sparky

Hi Sparky, haven't seen this in 12 years with a TBird, but it does look as if the front bracket has been bent up a little, and maybe when tightened down put strain on the LH rear mounting bracket (pretty hard strain, that is quite solid on mine anyway - but remember the tank theoretically holds 22 litres, so quite a weight, might have got jolted if your roads are bumpy...?). Anyway, got my wife to photo these bits on mine, though this is a 2009/10 1600 and has done some hard work in rough weather down here - about 68,000 km so far. I'd say you'd be best to get the bracket welded back on the frame properly over winter, if you have one? It takes a fair bit of weight, and I wonder if JB weld is appropriate? Hope this helps! cheers from New Zealand - Pat