thunderbird
Member
So glad to hear it man!!Yes, changing those coils out made the second biggest difference after getting the carb float heights adjusted and synced. Others suggested that same good advice and I followed it.![]()
So glad to hear it man!!Yes, changing those coils out made the second biggest difference after getting the carb float heights adjusted and synced. Others suggested that same good advice and I followed it.![]()
Having big problems with my '98 T-bird. Got REALLY hot while stuck in traffic, suddenly died, like switched off. Will start/run fine, consistently for about 4-5 minutes, then no spark. Pickup tests at 542 ohms- spec is 530 +/- 10%. Coils primary check, 1,2,3, at 1.6, 1.2 and 1.1 when cold, exceeding spec. so, assume all 3 coils are scrap? How did all 3 coils fail at once? How did you determine your coils were faulty? All failed at same time?Not at all suprised about your comments on the ignition coils. I have had to replace all 3 coils on BOTH of my T-3s. I have read comments on the poor quality of the original ones, but I suspect the problem is more an issue of them being tucked up under the tank where the heat really bakes them to "well done" after a short while.
...J.D.
Having big problems with my '98 T-bird. Got REALLY hot while stuck in traffic, suddenly died, like switched off. Will start/run fine, consistently for about 4-5 minutes, then no spark. Pickup tests at 542 ohms- spec is 530 +/- 10%. Coils primary check, 1,2,3, at 1.6, 1.2 and 1.1 when cold, exceeding spec. so, assume all 3 coils are scrap? How did all 3 coils fail at once? How did you determine your coils were faulty? All failed at same time?
On cold start bike runs great, no excessive heating of coils as measured with laser temp. tool, runs smooth, no stumble- gets warm, dies like switching off key. NOT fuel starvation, have cleaned float bowls, checked float levels, cleaned fuel tap and can see fuel moving through in-line filter. Will high initial resistance on coil primary side increase, overwhelming igniter capability to fire plus? If primary side of coils is bad, wouldn't resistance be infinite? Got me stumped and can't afford to keep throwing hundred-dollar bills at problem.
Had a Harley that did that! It turned out to be a relay that was bad and intermittingly failing so it would just die and restart after a short while later.Having big problems with my '98 T-bird. Got REALLY hot while stuck in traffic, suddenly died, like switched off. Will start/run fine, consistently for about 4-5 minutes, then no spark. Pickup tests at 542 ohms- spec is 530 +/- 10%. Coils primary check, 1,2,3, at 1.6, 1.2 and 1.1 when cold, exceeding spec. so, assume all 3 coils are scrap? How did all 3 coils fail at once? How did you determine your coils were faulty? All failed at same time?
On cold start bike runs great, no excessive heating of coils as measured with laser temp. tool, runs smooth, no stumble- gets warm, dies like switching off key. NOT fuel starvation, have cleaned float bowls, checked float levels, cleaned fuel tap and can see fuel moving through in-line filter. Will high initial resistance on coil primary side increase, overwhelming igniter capability to fire plus? If primary side of coils is bad, wouldn't resistance be infinite? Got me stumped and can't afford to keep throwing hundred-dollar bills at problem.
Had a Harley that did that! It turned out to be a relay that was bad and intermittingly failing so it would just die and restart after a short while later. That relay ran the fuel pump
Hi, I have the same bike. One thing to do when you have carbs apart is do a leak test with the float bowls off a carbs held like they would be on the bike. Put a vacuum if you can and then turn the carbs so the floats shut off and make sure the seat orings are holding. That’s where mine were leaking. I put over sized orings on mine and that worked. I also bought from Amazon a cheap v gage vacuum unit to sync the carb’s properly and always double check to make sure you don’t miss the really tiny orings on some of the jets. I missed one tiny one and it ran crappy. Also to check for vacuum leaks start it up and spray starting fluid in all the areas especially the carb to head boots. I had to replace all of mine but I bought oem parts from Euro cycle in Vegas. I also made my own air filter. They say the K&N allows too much air in. If you need any specs or what size jets you can email me at danmercer214@hotmail dot com. Hope some of this helps.Thanks for the kind thought, heh.
I'm not sure who wrote the manual I bought. It opens with a short essay on the late 80's/early 90's return of Triumph. It also thanks
Triumph for permission to use photos of parts, so probably it isn't from Triumph. I bought it online, a downloadable pdf.
As luck would have it, my next door neighbor had a friend of his over last week, and that friend is a BMW (car) mechanic who is also
an avid biker. My neighbor brought him over and had me run the bike for them. He showed me how the right-side pipe is literally spraying
fuel out the pipe. His feeling is the floats aren't working correct in one or more carburetors and thought perhaps the kits I got on ebay were
to blame.
The OEM kits from Triumph for this bike are very expensive, so for the moment, I will do one more carburetor clean and remeasuring the float
heights and double-checking that I reassembled everything right. I'll also double-check the vacuum hoses, as Qship suggested. If that fails, I suppose
I'll have to order the Triumph kits and then try again.
I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again for the encouragement.