1976 T140V--No Spark
- Thread starter silverfox41
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Hey Silverfox. Looks like you have a great bike to restore. Very original. Just a stab in the dark, have you checked the points for condition and correct gap.
silverfox41
Member
Yes I checked the points and regapped them. I have voltage at the coils. And I checked the zener diode out and it appears OK. And I wouldn't think that both condensers would be defective. All I can do is keep checking it out. Thanks.
Very nice bike you have there. Right now I really cannot think what else to suggest but I am sure we will have a few coming along very soon
Have you replaced the plugs themselves? Plug leads?
This is gonna turn out to be one of those "simple" problems..... ?????
This is gonna turn out to be one of those "simple" problems..... ?????
The shop manual gives you the test procedures in a logical order. I like to start at the beginning and work till I find the problem, or all the way through.
Just "for what it's worth", this photo clearly illustrates the one problem with the early style rear disc brake system: the high-point air trap in the hard brake line reverse loop.
silverfox41
Member
I have been going thru the test procedures in the workshop manual and the ignition switch appears OK. I have concluded that I don't see any voltage at the ignition points. And no spark if I short them out with a screwdriver. Bad condensers maybe????
Check the wires and connections from the coils to the condensers and then replace the condensers. It is unusual for both condenser to go bad at the same time.
Just a thought in addition to what Carl said......maybe someone wired the points themselves wrong? Be sure the little wires are the correct color and are attached to the correct place.
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
Yep, the little plastic "tophat" post insulators work counter-intuitively, they need to isolate the spring band from the circuit (or is it the other way around?)
Make sure all your connections are clean and free of any corrosion, are tight, and have solid metal-to-metal contact.
My guess is a shorted electrical connection at the points, where the tophat insulators ought to be.
silverfox41
Member
{{Finally Success}} I had the Lucas ignition coils checked and they were weak. I replaced them with some after market coils and changed one new NGK B7ES spark plug that was defective and low and behold it fired up. I will have to do some fine tuning but at least it runs. A special thanks to all that made suggestions. Now I'd like to find out if this is the original factory paint job, or if it has been repainted.
Congratualtions on solving the problem. Thanks for reporting back and letting us know.
The underside of the tank's tunnel, and the hole in the top where the hold-down hardware goes, can tall you a lot about the originality of the paint.
Great to hear that it's running!
Great to hear that it's running!
