1972 T120V XG43590
- Thread starter saig55
- Start date
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You apparently have a possibilities-oriented mind, seeing a beautiful finished product, in spite all the work it will take.
Looks like most of it is there. Take your time strip it to the frame make it right and solid to ride. Paint and pretty last. I did over half a dozen of these meridian "projects" in the 90s and still have a 68 with a 72 5 speed in it that the clutch crapped out on me yesterday, had to push it, ah memories. Primary cover removal and clutch teardown is the labor for labor day. Good luck and have fun with yours.
It's in better condition than first glance? Little rust on wheel rims! Even fork stanchions are only mildly rusted, not saying they are salavagable, just a good omen.
Aluminium crankcase with vapour blast will look new, polishable parts better than new. Tinwork looks solid, no dents.
Exciting!
Same year as mine!
Ps, I've read transporting on side stand causes it, or lug, to bend.
Aluminium crankcase with vapour blast will look new, polishable parts better than new. Tinwork looks solid, no dents.
Exciting!
Same year as mine!
Ps, I've read transporting on side stand causes it, or lug, to bend.
"Dusky jewel"
What’s your plan on the project?
My original goal was to just see if it would run, then go from there. After pulling the plugs.. one side looks good the other side had rust on the plug itself.
I’ve poured marvel mystery oil in both cyl and will let it soak for a couple of days to see if the pistons will break free…
If not straight to pulling the engine apart…
In the meantime looking for some parts… like a new clutch lever(broke) ignition switch(missing), tail light assy(missing)…
That’s the plan for now, but as always subject to change….
I’ve poured marvel mystery oil in both cyl and will let it soak for a couple of days to see if the pistons will break free…
If not straight to pulling the engine apart…
In the meantime looking for some parts… like a new clutch lever(broke) ignition switch(missing), tail light assy(missing)…
That’s the plan for now, but as always subject to change….
Bike standing for a long time with that cylinder on the inlet or exhaust stroke? If so, one or more of the rings are likely stuck to the bore, might need a rebore, oversize pistons to clean up the damage?
Before turning over the engine trying to get it to start, follow the advice in Waking The Sleeping Beast? Only thing not to do is put so much oil into the crankcase (via the primary filler) - the advice was written for triple owners, triples have a larger crankcase; twin, I would say put in only about a pint-to-pint-and-a-half?
Be aware there are two similar-looking ones, carefully measure the distance between the centre of the lever pivot and the centre of the cable nipple - Triumph used 7/8", Norton used 1-1/16".
Do not go by the picture in the parts book, it is of the 2-position (on-off only) switch, original Lucas had four key positions because it switches ignition and lights.
If you enter the parts book Lucas part number (39565) plus "lucas" into your browser, it will return links to two 4-position switches, choose one with brown terminals base and terminals like this, not the type with the white plastic terminals base and terminals at right-angles to each other (the internal connections are not quite the same
). The linked type also has the #1, #2, #3 terminals numbers corresponding to the numbers in the workshop manual and owner's manual wiring diagrams.Because the switch is mounted in the timing side sidepanel, any water that lands on the keyhole when the bike is on the sidestand runs into the switch ...
Modifications I make to the switch:-. If the small hole pictured by the #4 terminal is not at the bottom of the switch when it is mounted in the sidepanel, I drill another small hole at the bottom of the switch - helps any water that gets into the switch to drain straight out.
. Instead of the standard chromed mounting ring screwed on around the key hole, I use 97-4589 (first used on the T160, later on 79 on twins), this takes a rubber cover 60-4335.
. Switch terminals cover - despite what is shown and listed in the parts book, Triumph never fitted a terminals cover to any 4-position switch, the one in the parts book is for the pictured 2-position switch ...
However, Norton did ... enter "norton" plus either 06-4891 or 06-5723 into your browser and look at the returned images (the difference is the angle of the entry/exit for the wires).Afaict, none of those available new are completely correct for your bike - afaik, your bike's original light would have had three wires - Brown/Green tail light, plain Brown brake light and Red ground:-
. new "Genuine Lucas" have only the Brown/Green and plain Brown wires;
. cheaper pattern lights have a Red wire and a Black wire but the Red wire is to one of the bulb filaments, it is not ground.
Before about mid-1971, the original Lucas lights also did not have a ground wire; however, I always add one; relying on paint scraped off fenders, etc. for the ground path of a light that is an important warning to drivers and riders behind the bike, but you cannot see when riding, is
imho:-. if the ground wire can be threaded into the light unit beside the other two wires, I solder the bared end to the bulb holder;
. if the ground wire cannot be threaded into the light unit beside the other two wires, I terminate it with a 3/16" i.d. ring terminal and secure that under one of the bolt heads visible on the back of the light unit - the bolts mount the bulb holder.
If your bike still has the bullet connector in the rear light mounting that connects five different wires, the rear light ground wire connects to the Red wire.
Enlarged photo, I see Triumph logos in background? At worst, likely a replacement set of cases early in the bike's life?
Primary chain? Could be the reason for crankcases change?
Sounds like a complete engine rebuild time. That’s disappointing.
How badly is the case cracked? Did the crack open when you tried turning the nut?
