'78 T140E Oil Pressure

[Lake Marine]

Oil light blinks at idle, I remeber it doing it back in the early 80's and when i parked her in '85. Its been doing it again since this past February when I revived her. I pulled the OPRV today and found the piston was stuck against the screen end. I freed it up but in doing so trashed the screen so I reinstalled without the screen just to test to see if the oil pressure was better. Attached is a link showing test pressure with $35 gauge from Harbor Freight.
It has about 3-4psi at idle but when revving up to ~3500 it gets up to 70 psi and holds pretty well but drops off again under ~2000
Oil Pressure test hot with clean OPRV My tach is intermittently off by ~1K
Just throwing the link up here for reference or comments but mainly posting this thread as I want to buy a new oil pump. I see a ton out there but all seem to be no name knock offs and would like to get a Morgo but cant seem to find one for a '78 twin.
anyone recommend who might sell a quality oil pump for a 78 T140E or know where I can find a Morgo that will fit it?
Thanks, Ricky

 

[Rudie]

I want to buy a new oil pump
would like to get a Morgo but cant seem to find one for a '78 twin.

Morgo oil pumps, e.g. Morgo Triumph Twin Unit Plunger Oil Pump (1961-On) – Morgo Power Equipment

If you mean you cannot find a US reseller, Morgo's "Dealers" webpage lists a number in the US.

anyone recommend who might sell a quality oil pump for a 78 T140E

Have your tried the long-time US Triumph spares dealers - Klempf, Baxter, MAP, BCS, Walridge, etc.?

 

[Lake Marine]

Thanks for the response.
Yes looking for Morgo in the US. I have looked on Morgos website for US dealers.
British Only Motorcycle & Parts - According to website "Gone Fishin'
T P Classics - No website or catalog
Franz and Grubb Engine - Out of stock
Sealy Cycle Service - List only pre-unit (i have emailed them)

I have purchased parts from all of the other long time US spares dealers you mentioned (except Waldridge). All of the oil pumps they list appear to be of Emgo or "other" so I was hoping to find Morgo. I know the suppliers sell what available. Sometimes its decent quality and sometimes its junk and I didnt want to risk that on an oil pump.

 

[Rocky]

Walridge is in Canada and that's where I got my Morgo pump - but that was several years ago. Supply these days is hit and miss.

 

[Lake Marine]

Walridge is in Canada and that's where I got my Morgo pump - but that was several years ago. Supply these days is hit and miss.

Yes - Saw they were in Canada...didnt check as I sent my speedo up to Andy in CA and shipping took forever to get there then to get it back and I assumed it would be the same if I bought an oil pump from Walridge...dont know. Anyway I just checked and they do not have the Morgo in stock. I went ahead and ordered a pump from Klemps. He said it was an LF Harris and not an Emgo so we'll see.

 

[Rocky]

Yes - Saw they were in Canada...didnt check as I sent my speedo up to Andy in CA and shipping took forever to get there then to get it back and I assumed it would be the same if I bought an oil pump from Walridge...dont know. Anyway I just checked and they do not have the Morgo in stock. I went ahead and ordered a pump from Klemps. He said it was an LF Harris and not an Emgo so we'll see.

Good luck

 

[scottholl]

Oil light blinks at idle, I remeber it doing it back in the early 80's and when i parked her in '85. Its been doing it again since this past February when I revived her. I pulled the OPRV today and found the piston was stuck against the screen end. I freed it up but in doing so trashed the screen so I reinstalled without the screen just to test to see if the oil pressure was better. Attached is a link showing test pressure with $35 gauge from Harbor Freight.
It has about 3-4psi at idle but when revving up to ~3500 it gets up to 70 psi and holds pretty well but drops off again under ~2000
Oil Pressure test hot with clean OPRV My tach is intermittently off by ~1K
Just throwing the link up here for reference or comments but mainly posting this thread as I want to buy a new oil pump. I see a ton out there but all seem to be no name knock offs and would like to get a Morgo but cant seem to find one for a '78 twin.
anyone recommend who might sell a quality oil pump for a 78 T140E or know where I can find a Morgo that will fit it?
Thanks, Ricky

check out low brow custom cycles, big brit inventory. Morgo parts as well. Lowbrow Customs - Custom Motorcycle Parts for Harley Davidson, Triumph

 

[Dashfixer]

I've just bought a Morgo plunger pump, but I'm in the UK. If you still can't get hold of one in the US let me know, I'd be happy to get one sent out to you.
Back to the oil pressure problem, I had the same and after I removed the timing cover I found that the crankshaft seal had curled its lip over. Worth checking and just a cheap oil seal.

 

[speedrattle]

in america the seal to use is by pioneer weston, marked PW i think. cheap seals work in the points cavity, but the PW seals hold oil pressure

 

[Lake Marine]

I've just bought a Morgo plunger pump, but I'm in the UK. If you still can't get hold of one in the US let me know, I'd be happy to get one sent out to you.
Back to the oil pressure problem, I had the same and after I removed the timing cover I found that the crankshaft seal had curled its lip over. Worth checking and just a cheap oil seal.

That is a kind offer Dash but I gave up on locating a Morgo and bought what I believe to be an LF Harris a couple weeks ago.
Once I removed my stuck timing cover I could easily see my crank seal was deteriorated with a sizable chunk broken off. I guess after 44 years it finally gave way! I went ahead and replaced the pump as it had wear on the drive block and piston clevis but still seemed to have good pressure. I did replace both seals with the Pioneer-Weston's that speedrattle mentioned (yep...PW in the face).
Once I reassembled it had 60# at hot idle and 80# under way but I also noticed not surprisingly with the additional pressure my oil leakage increased. I think Ive got wicking up the head bolts, pushrod o-rings and rocker shaft seals all leaking.
On my second ride with new pump, the new OPRV I installed apparently stuck. I was a few miles from home and started hearing a slap/clacky sound and when I got home checked the oil pressure and it was 3# idle and 10# at 3500rpm. Pulled/cleaned the PRV (didnt see any issues) reinstalled and pressure was back up to 60/70#
Unfortunately the slap/clack is still there and I haven't had a chance to trace but cant help but feel its a rod bearing or wrist pin and its loud enough that im leery to ride.
Though it doesn't sound/feel like its in the Primary (chain tensions are good) I'm going to pull the cover and take a look in there anyway. I put new clutch rubbers and the Aerco 7 kit in back in May so maybe there is something gone awry in there. I drained/cleaned sump and gave new oil with the new pump and probably should drain and check the sump screen for signs as well. If there is nothing notable I'll probably look into doing the top end. Its never been done and the rotted crank seal implies there are other rubbers needing replacement.
Up until this past February when I revived it the bike sat idle since 1985 so who knows whats dry rotted or caked with hardened oil/varnish. My odometer is not working but Ive probably put ~2K miles on it since reviving so its been fun while it lasted!

 

[speedrattle]

is the new OPRV stainless steel? i have heard that they tend to jam.

a gasket set, seal kit, lockwasher kit, and new rod bearings might be all that you would need. wrist pins are fed by splash so if there was any oil in the sump they would likely be okay.

if the bike sat that long it might be a good winter project to take it down to the sludge trap and allay all the worries once and for all..

 

[Lordmac]

That is a kind offer Dash but I gave up on locating a Morgo and bought what I believe to be an LF Harris a couple weeks ago.
Once I removed my stuck timing cover I could easily see my crank seal was deteriorated with a sizable chunk broken off. I guess after 44 years it finally gave way! I went ahead and replaced the pump as it had wear on the drive block and piston clevis but still seemed to have good pressure. I did replace both seals with the Pioneer-Weston's that speedrattle mentioned (yep...PW in the face).
Once I reassembled it had 60# at hot idle and 80# under way but I also noticed not surprisingly with the additional pressure my oil leakage increased. I think Ive got wicking up the head bolts, pushrod o-rings and rocker shaft seals all leaking.
On my second ride with new pump, the new OPRV I installed apparently stuck. I was a few miles from home and started hearing a slap/clacky sound and when I got home checked the oil pressure and it was 3# idle and 10# at 3500rpm. Pulled/cleaned the PRV (didnt see any issues) reinstalled and pressure was back up to 60/70#
Unfortunately the slap/clack is still there and I haven't had a chance to trace but cant help but feel its a rod bearing or wrist pin and its loud enough that im leery to ride.
Though it doesn't sound/feel like its in the Primary (chain tensions are good) I'm going to pull the cover and take a look in there anyway. I put new clutch rubbers and the Aerco 7 kit in back in May so maybe there is something gone awry in there. I drained/cleaned sump and gave new oil with the new pump and probably should drain and check the sump screen for signs as well. If there is nothing notable I'll probably look into doing the top end. Its never been done and the rotted crank seal implies there are other rubbers needing replacement.
Up until this past February when I revived it the bike sat idle since 1985 so who knows whats dry rotted or caked with hardened oil/varnish. My odometer is not working but Ive probably put ~2K miles on it since reviving so its been fun while it lasted!

My '78 T140V sat for about the same amount of time and then, suddenly, in 2015 I decided to dust it off and pull it out from the corner of the garage where it patiently sat, waiting to be free again, and even though it started on THE FIRST KICK (which I wish it hadn't), it ran pretty good for a hundred miles or so until one of the high performance exhaust pushrods (made by Kibblewhite) self destructed sending chunks of broken hard steel down the pushrod tube and ruining my exhaust camshaft! I then had to go through the entire engine and replace all of the bearings, cams, pistons, seals and rubber parts too. You know, a total bore and rebuild. I did not replace the oil pump however as it still works fine. I do not have low oil pressure either. I highly recommend the procedure since then your bike will be trustworthy and run like a bat out of hail. I got LF Harris master brake cylinders that work great. I got the new Amal Premier carbs too. Wonderful carbs. It idles! It gets fabulous mileage too, like almost sixty miles to the gallon. I love my Bonnie. It's like a new motorcycle now and only cost a little more than when I bought it new in '78. The photo below was taken in 2017. I have done more work to it (using only English-made parts) like new Hagon progressive, rear shocks (highly recommended!) and Norton Peashooter mufflers. Those things make it sound like a race car when I pull hard on the throttle. Boy howdy, she shore do fly . . .

 

[speedrattle]

ouch.

i have never had a kibblewhite pushrod fail. once i bent one into an S-shape but it stayed together and both end caps remained intact.

i have had tbe usual problems with the stock ones

 

[Lordmac]

ouch.

i have never had a kibblewhite pushrod fail. once i bent one into an S-shape but it stayed together and both end caps remained intact.

i have had tbe usual problems with the stock ones

Hey, Speedrattle;

Riding for 246 years huh? I'll bet yer seat is in pretty good shape, eh? Yeah, the little hard metal end-piece on the pushrod shattered like glass and the aluminum rod quickly mushroomed. I was only taching around five thou at the time. I didn't give up on Kibblewhite products completely . . . I got their Black Diamond valves and fancy springs in there, but I am back with "stocker" pushrods. So far, so good.

When the pushrod went, I limped back to the barn (for about fifteen miles) on one lung, not a good thing to do. Not recommended. But then, I didn't know exactly what the problem was. Truth, I thought a rocker nut came loose or some-such. When I peered inside, under the hood, (took off the rocker cover) and saw what had happened, I FREAKED OUT! That began the second refurbishment of my Bonnie.

 

[speedrattle]

mine have held up well

 

[Lordmac]

mine have held up well

Now THAT is a perfectly good pushrod!

 

[Lordmac]

Oil light blinks at idle, I remeber it doing it back in the early 80's and when i parked her in '85. Its been doing it again since this past February when I revived her. I pulled the OPRV today and found the piston was stuck against the screen end. I freed it up but in doing so trashed the screen so I reinstalled without the screen just to test to see if the oil pressure was better. Attached is a link showing test pressure with $35 gauge from Harbor Freight.
It has about 3-4psi at idle but when revving up to ~3500 it gets up to 70 psi and holds pretty well but drops off again under ~2000
Oil Pressure test hot with clean OPRV My tach is intermittently off by ~1K
Just throwing the link up here for reference or comments but mainly posting this thread as I want to buy a new oil pump. I see a ton out there but all seem to be no name knock offs and would like to get a Morgo but cant seem to find one for a '78 twin.
anyone recommend who might sell a quality oil pump for a 78 T140E or know where I can find a Morgo that will fit it?
Thanks, Ricky

LF Harris makes a pump which can be got on EBay from Britispares in Las Vegas for 130.00. I like buying stuff on EBay cuz they make sure you get it . . . or else . . . Might could even get one a bit cheaper if one looked around a bit. I am not farm-illiar with Morgo pumps, which I hear are good, but LF Harris stuff is pretty good stuff.

Also on EBay; Britishpartsforless in Florida shows a Morgo pump for 150.00. So, they are out there and available . . .