Re-Spoking Motorcycle Wheels
- Thread starter TheNews
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Good information in this article.
I went down that rocky road with my two vintage bikes.
I had never done this before, but I fitted new rims and spokes and trued them myself.
It's quite a challenge and time consuming for an amateur, but I did it and I got them right.
You certainly have to have lots of patience
I had never done this before, but I fitted new rims and spokes and trued them myself.
It's quite a challenge and time consuming for an amateur, but I did it and I got them right.
You certainly have to have lots of patience
I have done it on bicycles; but not on a motorcycle. It certainly does take patience.
I photographed the lace patterns from different angles and it was quite easy to re-lace them. It's the truing that tries your patience. If you don't have lots of patience I don't recommend trying it yourself. But it was something I wanted to try and it worked out very well.
I learned how to do the first set of wheels by reading a magazine article. I learned what to do, but since I had no prior experience, the actual "doing" was frustrating. I would sometimes work at truing a wheel for an hour or more, but then would have to walk away - and usually came back the next day. From what I've read, most experts can do it in 20 minutes.
I think the first set of wheels took nearly a week
That was on the Tiger 100 back around 1996. When I did the BSA many years later, it took much less time.
I was quite pleased with myself that I could get the tolerances within or less than the accepted tolerances for hop and runout.
But as I said, this isn't for everyone!!
I learned how to do the first set of wheels by reading a magazine article. I learned what to do, but since I had no prior experience, the actual "doing" was frustrating. I would sometimes work at truing a wheel for an hour or more, but then would have to walk away - and usually came back the next day. From what I've read, most experts can do it in 20 minutes.
I think the first set of wheels took nearly a week
That was on the Tiger 100 back around 1996. When I did the BSA many years later, it took much less time.
I was quite pleased with myself that I could get the tolerances within or less than the accepted tolerances for hop and runout.
But as I said, this isn't for everyone!!
I have done my own wheels twice and found its starting off that's the hard part for me , but once you get going it gets easer the more spokes you get in.
as rocky said its the truing up that realy takes the time ! and will have you pulling your hair out
as rocky said its the truing up that realy takes the time ! and will have you pulling your hair out
NORTY
Member
I've built laced wheels for motorcycles since 1974. I can give some time saving tips here.
1. Have a clean bench top to work with.
2. Have everything you need in advance.
3. place the hub in the middle, and thread the spokes in.
4. Next, move spokes to their proper position (zipties can help keep them from moving.)
5. Shim the outer rim to the correct height (offset) before you start threading nipples on.
6. Feed the spoke ends into the appropriate holes in the rim.
7. Be sure of your "cross 3 or 4" pattern. (The more spokes you cross, the stronger your wheel shall be.)
8. Start at the Schrader valve hole for reference. You always want to have a referance point.
9. I usually start with the Schrader valve at 9 o'clock, then thread on a nipple @ 3 o'clock.
10. Work threading the nipples on loosely directly across from each other. Similar to bolt tightening on something that requires a sequence for even tension.
11. Double check the spoke angle fits the rim hole angle.
12. Most wheels are 36 spoke. 18 outside the hub flange, 18 inside the flange.
13. Measure the rim distance to the flange edge in numerous points (like a clock.) Get them even on both sides of the wheel.
14. True by loosening the spoke on one side and tightening the spoke on the other side. Forgot to mention~ use 60wt engine oil on the threads as this will help keep the spokes from twisting/binding.
Crap, somethings burning in the kitchen...gotta go!
1. Have a clean bench top to work with.
2. Have everything you need in advance.
3. place the hub in the middle, and thread the spokes in.
4. Next, move spokes to their proper position (zipties can help keep them from moving.)
5. Shim the outer rim to the correct height (offset) before you start threading nipples on.
6. Feed the spoke ends into the appropriate holes in the rim.
7. Be sure of your "cross 3 or 4" pattern. (The more spokes you cross, the stronger your wheel shall be.)
8. Start at the Schrader valve hole for reference. You always want to have a referance point.
9. I usually start with the Schrader valve at 9 o'clock, then thread on a nipple @ 3 o'clock.
10. Work threading the nipples on loosely directly across from each other. Similar to bolt tightening on something that requires a sequence for even tension.
11. Double check the spoke angle fits the rim hole angle.
12. Most wheels are 36 spoke. 18 outside the hub flange, 18 inside the flange.
13. Measure the rim distance to the flange edge in numerous points (like a clock.) Get them even on both sides of the wheel.
14. True by loosening the spoke on one side and tightening the spoke on the other side. Forgot to mention~ use 60wt engine oil on the threads as this will help keep the spokes from twisting/binding.
Crap, somethings burning in the kitchen...gotta go!
