Oil Filter

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oldbloke

Member
When I acquired my T120RV (1972) it was fitted with a spin-off /on oil filter, It is obviously way better than the original mesh that Triumph fitted, so begs the question, is it advisable to stick to the recommended Triumph service intervals for oil changes, or would it be safe to let it run for longer periods with the same oil ?.
 
There are probably different opinions about this, but I use a high quality oil and also have a spin-on oil filter on my 1970 Triumph.
I run the oil a bit longer than the triumph recommended interval and change both oil and filter.
There is no hard and fast rule about that, but a couple of hundred extra miles won't hurt anything.
Use your own judgement and whatever you're comfortable with.
 
Thanks guy's, whilst on the subject of oil, I noticed my bikes primary drive suffers from really bad emulsification of the oil despite having a factory fitted breather. Is this normal on old Triumphs and can it be put right, maybe with a modified breather. ???????
 
Going a bit further with the new filter rather than the recommended intervals of the 1972 owner's manual is fine. Modern oils are a lot better too, not just the filters. Remember when- for both cars and bikes- the manuals said to change the filter every other oil change? Heck, I bet '72 could be when.
 
Emulsification indicates a buildup of condensation, ESPECIALLY bad on shared-cavity later bikes. If there's emulsified oil in the primary, it's also in the engine and main frame cavities.

You MUST run the bike to full operating temperature, then a minimum of 30 minutes at that temperature, to ensure you've burned off ONE "sit time" worth of condensation! If it's been sitting, then only started, then sits, the maybe run around the block, then sits, it's actually BUILDING UP MORE condensation, NOT burning it off!

Simply starting the engine every few weeks is possibly one of the WORST things to do!

A quick "heat" cycle (not to full operating temperature) will cause a condensation cycle to occur as it cools back off.

Even starting the bike and riding around the neighborhood to "keep it from getting stale" isn't enough. Condensation will not start to vaporize until it reaches 212F, then must be sustained at that temperature long enough for ALL of the condensate to boil off.

...and IF you are burning off lots of condensate, you're ALSO running that condensate through your bearings and all other wear surfaces!

Better to dump the winter oil, flush the system, and start fresh.
 
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I agree that that starting the bike for only a few minutes doesn't burn off any condensate, but if the owner is not running it for short periods and he's not in a winter area where there's many freeze/thaw cycles, then there's little chance of appreciable water infiltration. That is mostly seen from those feeeze/thaw cycles.
 
...if the owner is not running it for short periods and he's not in a winter area where there's many freeze/thaw cycles, then there's little chance of appreciable water infiltration. That is mostly seen from those freeze/thaw cycles.
Heating the engine up, then having it cool off (especially in higher humidity areas) is enough to promote condensation.

Infiltration is another matter altogether!
 
Thanks again guys, your explanations were very interesting. My bike does run regularly except in Winter so I will be changing procedures a bit.
 
As others have said, it's not a good idea to start up the engine unless you're actually going to ride it - for the reasons already explained.
We have a long hibernation over the winter here - nearly six months.
Some of my friends start their bikes up once a month and I'm dismayed at that FACE
There is no point in doing that, but to each his own. It's their bike.
 
I have installed an oil filter in the "frame tank" of my '72 T120RV. When I researched add on oil filters, I did not find a spin on/off style. Would you be so kind as to direct me to the filter you have installed?
 
If you're asking me, this is the kit I installed years ago.
It's not a "fits all" and you may have to fabricate your own mounting plate/bracket and possibly supply hoses.
On my T100, I was able to tuck it up under the transmission out of sight, but that may not be possible on other bikes.

Old Britts, Oil Filter Kit
 
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Thanks Rocky. I have reviewed this one. Could not find a respectable location on the Bonnie.
That's the problem with these retrofits, hard to find a place that doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.
I was lucky because there is a hollow area under the engine where I could tuck it up out of sight.
 

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