Need help with British Customs ignition switch relocate bracket

[Dschief]

I bought a BC relocate bracket to move the ignition switch from the headlight bracket down to frame. I didn't think it was going to be as big a deal as it has turned out to be.

Removing the switch from the headlight ear was not a problem. Installing the switch to the bracket was no big deal, but the screws bottomed out before the switch was tight in the bracket. No big deal, I just used some small washers to shim it.

My big problem is the wiring. The kit comes with new frame bolts and the bracket, and no instructions. If anyone has installed one of these kits, or a similar kit, how do the wires need to be routed? The only thing I can see is; the entire ignition switch wiring assembly (including the connector that is currently in the headlight bucket) need to be moved to outside the bucket in order to give me enough wire to attach the switch assembly to it's new home. Otherwise, the wires will be too short to allow full steering lock to the right.

Any wisdom or experience on this project will be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

[The Seeker]

If it were me, I think I would see if I could buy two new connectors that match what's presently in place and then run new wires making an extension of the original. In other words, one new connector connecting to the one inside the headlamp bucket with new extension wires running to another new connector that plugs into the back of the ignition switch. I'm not sure if you could pick them up at a local parts store of it they would have to be Triumph though.

I did something similar to that when I installed risers under my handlebars. It has the bonus of being able to restore it to stock if anyone ever wanted to just by unplugging the extension.

 

[Dschief]

That's a fine idea if I can find the needed connectors. I did manage to find a used switch from a T100 for a very reasonable price, so I will have the switch plug (as well as a spare switch should I ever need it). Now if I can locate the other end, which would be the hot side of the wiring inside the bucket, I'll be in business.
Thanks for the idea and input!!!!

 

[CarlS]

BellaCorse sells the connectors. I bought some from them for a signal light kit.

 

[Dschief]

I haven't seen the ignition switch connectors on their site, just the lighting connectors.
I got a used switch yesterday, so I have the end I need most. I think if I splice the wires from the original switch and these "new" wires together, they will be plenty long enough.

 

[CarlS]

That should work - and you are right about the lighting connectors; I checked the site.

 

[The Seeker]

I grabbed a little plastic bag full of different size and different colored "shrink wrap" tubes at a NAPA store to insulate my splices. You can match the wire colors that way and they are waterproof.

 

[CarlS]

I like the idea of the colored shrink wrap. :y115:

 

[The Seeker]

Since bikes often get caught in the rain, I make my splice and then coat the bare wire with a little silicone sealer before I slip the shrink tube over the spliced area. Then when it's heated and shrunk, it captures the silicone inside as an extra added waterproofing measure.

With the colored tubes, your spices almost disappear.

 

[CarlS]

I hadn't though of the silicone sealer idea. Very good.

 

[The Seeker]

I also have all relays and the backs of switches covered with black balloons that I stretch over them and then tie-off with wire ties to keep them waterproof.

I got the idea from working underneath the motorhome I used to own.....Coachmen used black balloons at their factory to seal things from the weather.

I bought the black balloons at one of those party supply stores and used black wire ties.

 

[Rocky]

I use dielectric grease in every electrical connection that I deal with.

 

[CarlS]

[quote author=Rocky link=topic=9252.msg45537#msg45537 date=1268423664]
I use dielectric grease in every electrical connection that I deal with.
[/quote]

Ditto

 

[Dschief]

Finished up the job last night, it was really quiet simple once I realized it wasn't going to be easy. I know that doesn't make any sense, but that's just how it worked out.

First, I pulled the headlight out, disconnected and laid it aside. Next, I diconnected all the electrical connectors in the headlight shell. Then, remove the headlight mounting bolts and slide all the connectors out of the back of the shell (just like sucking spaghetti and meat balls through a straw). Then, I seperated all the connectors until I had the ignition switch lead hanging where I needed it. Next you stuff all the spaghetti and meatballs back through the straw,uh, I mean all the connectors back into the headlight shell. Reconnect everything, check the front turn signals before you put the headlight back in to make sure you got left and right reversed (50/50 chance of getting it right the first time, I always get the wrong 50). Swap the turn signal connectors, put the headlight back in, and I'm done. Almost that easy! It's a really good thing Triumph uses connectors that can't be hooked up wrong (except the turn signals that is).

I'll post a picture of the completed project as soon as I remember to charge my camera battery.

 

[CarlS]

Very good. I'm looking forward to the pics of the finished project.

 

[PurplePhil]

Picked up this thread with interest. I have just bought a relocation kit to move the ignition on my 2011 Bonneville 865 from the left headlamp arm down to the right side of the bike.

I have taken the headlight apart and can see the various wires and connectors and now know that I will HAVE to move the connector blocks outside of the headlamp bowl.

I'm sure I can find a sensible route through the frame but worry about weather protection (I live in England!!) and protection from engine heat.

I spotted that someone said they used black balloons to weather proof bits but surely these won't withstand the heat from the engine.

I thought about buying some of those Teflon 'Toasty' bags, cutting one end open and sliding the wires and connectors inside and then taping and tie wrapping the ends.

Would this work or does anyone have any further suggestions??

 

[gumpt1oo]

Hi Phil, I have just done the relocation job on my Scrambler. My kit relocates it to the left side of the frame. I just stripped the binding off the loom, took the connectors out of the headlight and pulled the wires back to where the relocation bracket is. I then fitted the connectors together using dielectric grease and re-bound the loom including the connectors. I then pushed the connectors up under the tank right up towards the headstock. They are far enough away from heat and water.
I will post a picture later on today.

 

[gumpt1oo]

Ok, I stripped the binding off the loom to this point,

Fitted the relocation bracket and ignition making sure the cable is facing down as it comes out of the switch.

I then re-bound the loom and routed the cable up between the frame towards the headstock. The connector is where my finger is on the picture. Well out of the way of heat and water.

Here is the finished job. I also relocated the rectifier at the same time. The headlight bucket is nearly empty now!

 

[PurplePhil]

Ok, I stripped the binding off the loom to this point,

Fitted the relocation bracket and ignition making sure the cable is facing down as it comes out of the switch.

I then re-bound the loom and routed the cable up between the frame towards the headstock. The connector is where my finger is on the picture. Well out of the way of heat and water.

Here is the finished job. I also relocated the rectifier at the same time. The headlight bucket is nearly empty now!

Thanks Steve, that is REALLY helpful.

My ignition will be located on the right-hand side (same position) but I feel more confident about moving the wiring now.

Cheers