Knowledge Please

[JED DUKES]

Morning people, new to this site as I have a problem I have, until now hopefully, that i have been unable to solve.
Currently completing a full strip down on my 1973 T140v and am struggling with getting the ignition warning, oil pressure & indicator lights out of the headlamp shroud.
I was hoping that the electrical contacts would just pull away, similar to a spade fitting but this is not the case. I don't want to force them as due to the age they may be fragile.

Additionally, I am removing the engine for a frame paint. Can anyone tell me if the bottom engine mounting stud, which seems to pass right through both sides of the frame and the crankcase needs to be removed by the use of a drifter?

Very kind regards

Jed

 

[Rudie]

ignition warning, oil pressure & indicator lights out of the headlamp shroud.

If they are standard, each has one wire into the centre of the end of the light and another crimped and possibly soldered to the edge beside the central wire. If so, apart from the crimp, you should be able to feel a ridge around the bottom of each light; the ridge and wire crimp are unpainted aluminium colour, the remainder of each light is black plastic; simply get a couple of finger nails between the aluminium ridge and the black plastic, pull on the aluminium ridge, not the wire crimp, the bulb holder slides out of the black plastic shade.

bottom engine mounting stud
removed by the use of a drifter?

Especially after all other engine mountings have been removed, the whole weight of the engine is on the stud, it will not move until the engine weight is taken by a jack; however, it takes patience to get the jack setting right - taking the weight of the engine but not the weight of the frame; when the jack is set correctly, the stud should just tap out, probably starting by using a long bolt of a slightly smaller diameter?

 

[grandpaul]

Especially after all other engine mountings have been removed, the whole weight of the engine is on the stud, it will not move until the engine weight is taken by a jack; however, it takes patience to get the jack setting right - taking the weight of the engine but not the weight of the frame; when the jack is set correctly, the stud should just tap out, probably starting by using a long bolt of a slightly smaller diameter?

Yes, it SHOULD just tap out, but I have found that some of them have enough dissimilar metal corrosion that they are quite obstinate and require "persuasion". I typically remove the nuts and spray WD40 or Liquid Wrench type penetrant on the threads and let them sit a while, tapping and spraying another time or two over the course of a day. Next day, roll the nut on until the head of the stud is flush with the nut face, then "persuade" it with a brass drift or a hardwood dowel, 'till it frees off...

 

[JED DUKES]

If they are standard, each has one wire into the centre of the end of the light and another crimped and possibly soldered to the edge beside the central wire. If so, apart from the crimp, you should be able to feel a ridge around the bottom of each light; the ridge and wire crimp are unpainted aluminium colour, the remainder of each light is black plastic; simply get a couple of finger nails between the aluminium ridge and the black plastic, pull on the aluminium ridge, not the wire crimp, the bulb holder slides out of the black plastic shade.


Especially after all other engine mountings have been removed, the whole weight of the engine is on the stud, it will not move until the engine weight is taken by a jack; however, it takes patience to get the jack setting right - taking the weight of the engine but not the weight of the frame; when the jack is set correctly, the stud should just tap out, probably starting by using a long bolt of a slightly smaller diameter?

Thanks for the reply guys, so informative, engine is out. thank you so much. Haven't looked at the lights yet, tomorrows job.

A further question regarding the air filters. The manual shows the filters without a 'snorkel' attached which mine have, and I can't find a snorkel separate. My snorkels are not removable and are further retained by a clip. The one in the manual is part no 60-3618. I can't seem to find a matching part/s. Can anyone assit me further?

Very kind regards
Jed

 

[Lordmac]

Yes, it SHOULD just tap out, but I have found that some of them have enough dissimilar metal corrosion that they are quite obstinate and require "persuasion". I typically remove the nuts and spray WD40 or Liquid Wrench type penetrant on the threads and let them sit a while, tapping and spraying another time or two over the course of a day. Next day, roll the nut on until the head of the stud is flush with the nut face, then "persuade" it with a brass drift or a hardwood dowel, 'till it frees off...

I find a cutting torch works reel good, uh, just kidding.