Is T140V Or E Better?

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Alestorm

Member
Hi Everyone,
Many years ago I used to own a 1978 T140V and I'm now hoping to get another T140 but am not sure what model to look for, 'V' or 'E'. I'm familiar with the mk1 Amal carbs and points ignition, all of which worked well on my 'V', but I know very little about the 'E' with mk2 Amal's and electronic ignition. Are there any advantages or disadvantages with these different carburettors and ignition setups? I've heard that there is a slight performance loss with the mk 2's and that the electronic ignition is expensive to replace if it fails and offers no real advantage over points, but I'd be grateful for some more opinions on this please.

Also, I've been told that some of the early T140V's had gearbox and/ or clutch issues that were sorted out in the later models from around 1976 onwards? Is this correct and is a model from '76 onwards the best to look for.

Many thanks for any replies.
 
Hi Everyone,
Many years ago I used to own a 1978 T140V and I'm now hoping to get another T140 but am not sure what model to look for, 'V' or 'E'. I'm familiar with the mk1 Amal carbs and points ignition, all of which worked well on my 'V', but I know very little about the 'E' with mk2 Amal's and electronic ignition. Are there any advantages or disadvantages with these different carburettors and ignition setups? I've heard that there is a slight performance loss with the mk 2's and that the electronic ignition is expensive to replace if it fails and offers no real advantage over points, but I'd be grateful for some more opinions on this please.

Also, I've been told that some of the early T140V's had gearbox and/ or clutch issues that were sorted out in the later models from around 1976 onwards? Is this correct and is a model from '76 onwards the best to look for.

Many thanks for any replies.
The "E" model can be quite nice if, LIKE ALL OTHERS, it is maintained and serviced properly.

I had a very nice '78 "E" model with Dunstall 2-into-1-into-2 Power Pipes, it was a hot rod...
043-78TRI.JPG


Only problem it had was the rear tire the original owner had on it, rubbed the brake master cylinder, causing it to heat up and eventually lock up. I finally figured it out and swapped it; no more problems!
 
Because of the time elapsed since they were built, far more important is going to be the mechanical competence of previous owners and how the bike was stored. An early V built in September 1972 with few (one?) mechanically-competent owner(s) who used it regularly and stored it in dry garage(s) is going to have far fewer problems than a late 83 E that has been owned by a succession of people who should never have been allowed big boys' tools and stored the bike under a "tarp" between their 'goes' at it.

In the unlikely event you have a choice between a V and an E in the same condition, then maybe consider the bells and whistles that appeal to you? E.g.:-

. The T160 being my favourite Triumph, the front end of a 79 onwards E is (y) V/78 E front end was hit several times with the ugly stick imho. (n)

. Ime, a powerful alternator is the basis of fit and forget electrics. So the 3-phase alternator fitted to 79 onwards E is 'better' than the single-phase one fitted to V and 78 E. That said, the most common low output 3-phase is not that "powerful", few E were fitted with the high output 3-phase as standard so, if one is on your list too, fitting to a V is barely more difficult than to an E.

. I prefer electronic ignition over points, 79 onward E had it as standard, many V have had one fitted by a previous owner.

However, a V will require more modifications to its wiring harness than an E for those upgrades, new off the shelf harnesses still do not cater for common modifications like electronic ignition so, for electrical reliability, you might have to contemplate diy (not difficult).
 
Also, I've been told that some of the early T140V's had gearbox and/ or clutch issues that were sorted out in the later models from around 1976 onwards? Is this correct and is a model from '76 onwards the best to look for.

i believe youre thinking of the delicate early five speed that was fitted to the late 71s and 72-on machines.

the first gear layshaft locking dog was made without a lot of metal, and dropping the box into first gear too abruptly could shatter it, locking the box if you were lucky and cracking the cases if you werent. AMHIK

they fixed it in the next few factory iterations and offered a service solution called the CP1000 kit, which included a number of separate parts that all have to go in at the same time. surviving bikes have generally had the fix installed. s

i do not know exactly when it was sorted but i believe by about 1974 all have the upgraded box.
 

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