Adventurer electrical question....

[medicis]

This may be the wrong place to post this question .. am just beginning to learn my way around. But, in any case: Am trying to figure out the wiring on my 98 Adventurer .... the start/stop sliding switch disintegrated long ago in the restoration process. But upon completion (sort of) The motorcycle ran for the first week until I decided to fix the instrument lights. Now I have starting problems. Probably because the battery d/c'd because, I think, my 1.5 charger seems defunct. (I had the lights on and off a lot) My larger charger, a 22 year old Sears still works and will charge the battery at 2 amps. So I am trying that now. Am trying to check the clutch neutral switch. Already disassembled the solenoid and it is working ok.


Another question is (and I'll try to find the right thread to post it appropriately), is there any source for handlebar switches anywhere? Or substitutes? Or, can I continue to live without the sliding switch (right side switch assembly)? Also, I gotta learn about rear shocks and front struts... which probably need rebuilding especically given my weight of 225 (hey, I've lost about 25 and working my way down ;-) ) currently, I bottom out on the front and back ... :-(

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

m.

 

[The Seeker]

I'm not sure of what question you have in the first part. I do know these newer bikes do need a pretty good charge on the battery to start correctly. You may also want to check the kickstand switch and the crank position sensor. Although crank position sensor problems usually show up when the bike is warm/hot but work fine when cold.

Handlebar switches could be had from a Triumph dealer for an arm and a leg OR you might luck out and find one on eBay from a bike that's being parted-out. Chances are the switch you need was also used on other models which increases your chances of finding one there. Just try searching eBay for a "Right Hand (RH) Triumph kill handlebar switch" and look closely over the results.

 

[medicis]

thanks for your reply.

As it turned out, I was able to repair the two main (i think) functions on the switch (start button and kill switch). I don't know what the sliding switch was all about. I have no manual and the Haynes manual is not sufficiently detailed regarding the switches. But, so far, whatever it did appears of little relevance.

And you were dead on about the battery (pardon the pun). As it turned out, my newish 1.5 amp charger was kaput. I ended up using my old Sears charger with the 2 amp setting enabled. After letting it charge last night, I affirmed when it turned over the starter motor. Learned some about the wiring. Got the brake lites to work. So, after putting all the pieces together/back on and wrapping some of the wiring, letting down of the jack.... it started right up and I confess, I skipped chores and road around town for a while.

Now to start cleaning up the Matchless. My brother and I restored his '56 G11CS along with my '62 G12CSR back in '71. The G12 had a cracked case and I had that repaired and I rebuilt the motor. My brother did his '56 G1 in which the engine was in much better shape. Well, the G12 - I found out more recently - was notorious for throwing rods. It was the move from the 600 twin G11 to the 650 that did it, apparently. So, after my second thrown rod, I gave up and left it in the desert (at a friend's) east of Tuscon. It's still there. I'm sure there is nearly no rust. But, in brevity, Later on my brother gave me his G11 ... he moved on to Harleys. But the Matchless sat in his barn for many years (while I did my education all over the country) and although the inside of the engine is pristine (only about 10 miles on it), once again, I'm going to have to restore a bunch of aluminum....

anyway, I am verbose. sorry. But glad to be here amongst friends.

m.

 

[DaveM]

Sound like you have a few good rides just waiting for small bit of attention to bring them back into shape. Will be looking forward to hearing more on them so keep us posted

 

[The Seeker]

Somebody here ought to have owned or does own an Adventurer and should be able to fill us in on what that sliding switch is for. I am not familiar with that particular Triumph. It's going to bug me now until we know. Perhaps it was for heated grips...like a thermostat???

 

[CarlS]

On the Bonneville, the sliding switch on the right hand side (with the kill switch and starter button) is/was unused on US bikes. It is for the headlight switch, which was used on European models and other export models until 2002 (or there about). It is blank on all current models, just a plastic plate where the switch should be. I have tried to obtain an older one and they are no longer to be had. Several guys did purchase them from GB dealers in early 2003 and previously. The switch had three positions: on, off, and parking. Whether this is the same setup for the Adventurer, I do not know; but my guess is that it is.

 

[The Seeker]

Oh! So that's what that blanked-out area on my Trophy right hand switch housing was used for!! I always wondered what would go there.

 

[DaveM]

My Speedmaster also has the blank

 

[CarlS]

[quote author=The Seeker link=topic=10505.msg51591#msg51591 date=1286197935]
Oh! So that's what that blanked-out area on my Trophy right hand switch housing was used for!! I always wondered what would go there.
[/quote]

Yes, and I have tried and tried to find that switch from Europe, South America, anywhere.

 

[The Seeker]

It's federal law in the USA to have "always on" headlights on bikes after a certain date though so I don't know if I'd ever use that switch. I even keep my headlamp on on my older bikes to avoid being a hood ornament on some text crazy cager's car.

 

[CarlS]

I wanted the switch when I lived on the preserve. There were times when I preferred not having a headlight pinpoint my location: poachers, trespassers, etc.

 

[The Seeker]

[quote author=medicis link=topic=10505.msg51468#msg51468 date=1285983986]
Also, I gotta learn about rear shocks and front struts... which probably need rebuilding especically given my weight of 225 (hey, I've lost about 25 and working my way down ;-) ) currently, I bottom out on the front and back ... :-(
[/quote]

Firstly, you don't need to rebuild them unless you see them seeping oil. If they are dry and free from oil seepage, then it's just your weight causing it (no offense).

You can of course "dial up" the rear shock's spring rate pre-tension by turning the collar on them to their highest setting. If that doesn't stop them from bottoming-out, then you might have to consider a beefier set of rear shocks. I know of a source for those if it comes to that.

As far as the front forks bottoming out goes.....

I am not that familiar with the Adventurer's set up, but on many newer bikes you can also dial the tension on them as well with a nut on the top of the forks. If the Adventurer doesn't have them, then the only route to go is to:

a) Replace the spring inside with a progressive or heavier spring (problem with this is that you don't really know if they'll be enough to stop the bottoming until you've bought them and done all the work).

b) Buy a piece of PVC pipe that just fits (diameter wise) on top of the spring (between the two large washers). You then cut the PVC pipe and place it on top of the spring. First you'd try using something like 1/2 inch length and see if that is enough to stop the bottoming. Normally it would. If not though, you try cutting two pieces 3/4th inch and then progressively longer until the bottoming stops. Keep in mind however that with every increment longer piece of PVC, the sealing bolt at the top of the forks will get harder and harder to screw down....it can be dangerous if the bolt flies up an cracks you in the face! You do this of course with all the weight off of the front end.....put blocks under the frame so the front wheel is off the ground.

Most all Trophy owners have done one of the above methods to make their front end stop "diving" under hard braking. I added 1/2 inch PVC to my front forks so I can guide you if you need some more info on that.

PS: DO NOT attempt adding extra shock oil to avoid the bottoming as all that'll do is end up blowing out your fork seals.

 

[The Seeker]

[quote author=CarlS link=topic=10505.msg51638#msg51638 date=1286204848]
I wanted the switch when I lived on the preserve. There were times when I preferred not having a headlight pinpoint my location: poachers, trespassers, etc.
[/quote]

Ahhhh....that makes sense...LOL.

When I was youn, I would always add a switch to turn off all my lights (including brake lights) on my cars and bikes just in case I needed to outrun some local law enforcement personnel...Hahahaha!

 

[CarlS]

[quote author=The Seeker link=topic=10505.msg51642#msg51642 date=1286206040]
Ahhhh....that makes sense...LOL.

When I was youn, I would always add a switch to turn off all my lights (including brake lights) on my cars and bikes just in case I needed to outrun some local law enforcement personnel...Hahahaha!
[/quote]

I did that, too; then I became the law! :y114: