72 Triumph / Twin Carb Question
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Yes.
Allegedly can be handy to keep the engine running in that period between using the tickler(s) to start the engine and the engine's fully warmed. But the old British motorcycle industry fitted the choke lever in some weird places - reducing any potential effectiveness - and assembling the parts today can be a pita given they are are made by different makers.
Usual start practice is, FROM COLD:
# Key off.
# Tickle until fuel floods out.
# Good hefty kick, or couple of not so hefty ones.
# Key on.
# A touch of throttle.
# Kick it like your life depends on it.
# if it fires, hold revs a little above idle, otherwise will stall.
You can then ride straight off.
If HOT, same as above, except:
# No initial tickle, just tickle, key on, kick to start.
# Throttle needs to be WIDE OPEN. Get ready for the roar, and quickly tame the revs.
If the engine is 'half hot', can be tricky, need to experiment with tickle and how wide open throttle is.
Takes a while to get find what the bike likes. Will start one kick after key is on, once found what the bike does like. Sometimes two kicks. I've found, if I mess up within two kicks, it goes downhill from there!!
It is a learning experience to enable first kick starting hot, cold or just warm. For example my 67 Bonneville with brand new twin Monobloc carbs (chokes never fitted by Triumph on this bike) will start first kick every time. Five second tickle on both when cold with fuel just starting to leak. Very quickly warms enough to run clean (10-15 seconds). No tickling needed after that unless the engine becomes very cold (rarely an issue here in Queensland). Even a half kick is normally enough to start. If you are struggling then possibly the engine needs some form of attention, minor or otherwise. These were originally built as everyday transport for the working man and needed to be reliable, even in deepest winter. At 17 I was one such rider in the UK on a pre unit Thunderbird which was old even when I had it back in the mid 70's. It wasn't a patch on my pampered as new oil tight 67 Bonneville but still it was 95% reliable as a daily ride, even with all the oil leaks (total loss system, oil changes not required!!). Wish I had it now.
Half kick on mine would never turn engine over. In fact, harder it is to kick, possibly better the condition of the engine. A half kick risks a nasty kickback too.
Anyway, all bikes are different, that's what's it's about with a classic.
Reading and watching online videos helps.
Confession time... bought my first Triumph, 750 Bonneville. It took me several months to get it started, severely gashing my shin before I did. I wasn't reading forums, struggling alone. Nothing wrong with that bike at all, it was me not knowing. I now only start it with heavy boots that have shin armour, I bought after the accident.
ManInTheJar
Well-Known Member
I've recent experience of starting with or without a "choke" on a TR7RV. My Amal Premier had the wrong carb top which stopped the choke operating, I have fixed that and the choke now works.
My experience as others have said is that the tickler coupled with the correct starting procedure is all that is required to start the bike. The difference the choke made was to make the engine run cleaner when cold without having to use the throttle to control the tickover. Full disclosure, I have a Tri-Spark which also steadies the tickover.
On the concentric the choke is a very simple mechanism consisting of a slide controlled via a cable by a friction lever. Parts are available at a reasonable price but it's probably only worth doing if you live somewhere like Scotland (or colder) where temperature is more of an issue.
If you run with no choke it's worth checking that the choke cable holes are blanked off on the carb tops.
My experience as others have said is that the tickler coupled with the correct starting procedure is all that is required to start the bike. The difference the choke made was to make the engine run cleaner when cold without having to use the throttle to control the tickover. Full disclosure, I have a Tri-Spark which also steadies the tickover.
On the concentric the choke is a very simple mechanism consisting of a slide controlled via a cable by a friction lever. Parts are available at a reasonable price but it's probably only worth doing if you live somewhere like Scotland (or colder) where temperature is more of an issue.
If you run with no choke it's worth checking that the choke cable holes are blanked off on the carb tops.
I would love to be able to warm my bike for a minute before moving off but we have a long standing tradition (why oh why?) of meeting at the bikers cafe on a Sunday morning at 6.00am. This requires a 5.00am start. My Triumph just isn't that quiet and I worry about my neighbours. I always "break" the clutch first with a few sharp kicks to lessen the crunch I know is coming when engaging first gear when its cold for the same reason. I now use automatic gearbox fluid in the Primary which does help with the sticky clutch issue. A word of advice to the unsure, my bike does not share the engine oil with the Primary case, later bikes did share and cannot use different oil.
One trick if your bike struggles to keep running when warming up is to use quick short dabs of the tickler. You will find the engine immediately picks up for a second or two. Not too much or it will flood. The one lesson I have learned in the 50 plus years owning bikes is the absolute importance of the carburettor/s being in perfect condition. I wish I had known this when I first started riding what were mostly old knackered bikes back in the 70's. This is especially true of the needle and jet that can actually wear quite quickly and affect smooth running in the lower rev range. With the advent of injector systems carbs have become a forgotten skill with many mechanics.
Forums like this and Youtube have been a godsend in providing knowledge and assistance in maintaining these classic bikes. I wish they had been around when I was 17.
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