1976 T140v Timing Mark

[ZILCH]

When trying to start my bike it would kick back like a mule. I checked the timing at the proper rpm range with a timing light and the pointer was pointing at the TDC mark for #1 cyclinder. That is one of the two marks 180 degree apart in a trappazoid raised area on the alternator rotor correct? When timing the engine and identifying where 38 degrees BTDC you use the 38 degree plung tool to mark the alternator rotor correct? I did that and there was a previous mark at 38 degree BTDC on the compression stoke. I adjusted the timing by loosening the two screws and rotating the Boyer timing plate while running the engine at the proper rpm using a strobe light. However there was not enough slot in the ignition timing plate to get the pointer to point at the 38 degree mark. it was halway between TDC and 38 degrees. The engine was running great and when starting there was no kick back and it started then on the first or second kick when cold. It is almost like something is off a tooth. Should I check all the timing marks on the cam gearing or elongate the slots on the boyer timing plate?

Thanks,
Zilch

 

[DaveM]

I cannot recall ever having an issue like this one any of my old bikes but I am sure one of the other members may have an idea on this one.

 

[otherwise]

I suspect it may not have been assembled correctly in the beginning. The following steps are important when setting it up.
Taken from this,
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00052__BOX00023_.pdf


15) Remove timing inspection cover from alternator side of engine.
16) Set engine to the full advance timing mark on compression.
17) Fit the magnetic rotor onto the end of the camshaft in the contact breaker housing using one of the cap head screws, two different
threads being provided. This should be finger tight; if the thread is too long a small amount should be cut off the end.
18) Hold the stator plate in the contact breaker housing and with it half way along its adjustment slots, turn the magnetic rotor on its taper
until the magnets line up through the appropriate timing hole. This must be done without turning the engine. See Fig.2.
19) Tighten the rotor cap head screw and re-check engine position and rotor alignment.

 

[ZILCH]

Thanks Otherwise. I believe you are right. The rotor must be set to the TDC mark not the 38 degree Mark. That would allow the slots in pick up plate to fall with in the adjusting range to obtain 38 degrees. Tonight I'll go through the set up procedure on the Boyer ignition rotor and timing plate and I bet it will fall into place. I appreciate your help folks

 

[ZILCH]

Re-clocking the rotor with the magnets did the trick. By checking the piston against both timing notches with the timing tool I found out what I thought was TDC mark was actually the 38 degree mark. So when I first checked the setup with the strobe light the pointer was pointing to the 38 degree BTDC mark at idle then advancing from there. No wonder the thing was kicking back so hard. Once I got it dialed in it runs great. Thanks for your help.
The thing I was odd is the lack of specific information in the manuals about timing and timing marks.

 

[devo]

good to hear.

 

[otherwise]

Re-clocking the rotor with the magnets did the trick. By checking the piston against both timing notches with the timing tool I found out what I thought was TDC mark was actually the 38 degree mark. So when I first checked the setup with the strobe light the pointer was pointing to the 38 degree BTDC mark at idle then advancing from there. No wonder the thing was kicking back so hard. Once I got it dialed in it runs great. Thanks for your help.
The thing I was odd is the lack of specific information in the manuals about timing and timing marks.

That's why we have forums like TRIUMPH TALK.
Glad you got it sorted.

 

[DaveM]

Great work glad it is sorted

 

[CarlS]

Re-clocking the rotor with the magnets did the trick. By checking the piston against both timing notches with the timing tool I found out what I thought was TDC mark was actually the 38 degree mark. So when I first checked the setup with the strobe light the pointer was pointing to the 38 degree BTDC mark at idle then advancing from there. No wonder the thing was kicking back so hard. Once I got it dialed in it runs great. Thanks for your help.
The thing I was odd is the lack of specific information in the manuals about timing and timing marks.

That for the update. That is a good report and may help some else down the road.